Coming Home

Saturday-Sunday, March 28-29: Rick and I left Tom and headed away from the Big Horn around 7:20 am under clear skies that stayed with us through the first third of Iowa. Lots of snow throughout Montana and Wyoming and, having heard reports of snow storms hitting the Dakotas, we took a more southerly route (I-80 instead of I-90), reasoning that the extra 120 miles might save us some bad road driving further north. We were probably mostly correct in this assessment, but not perfect. East of Des Moines, the wind and snow started creating dicey conditions. The last third of the trip home was slow—probably averaged 40-45 mph—and nervous making. We counted at least 70 cars in ditches along with a couple semis overturned in the median. Finally made it home late morning Sunday after 25 hours on the road: safe, tired and glad to be there.

This has been quite an adventure for me. It seems as if I’ve been gone forever. And yet, now that I’m back, it feels like a dream, as if it happened outside of time. It’s a trip I’d been dreaming about for a long time. I’m glad I finally did it. I’m also glad to be home. Thanks to all who’ve played a part: in encouraging me to do it, in giving me a bed to sleep in, in showing me the sights, in driving along with me, and in sharing it vicariously through this blog and via email.
I was asked by a close friend yesterday to name the highlight of the trip. It was easy: My mom and dad are both alive and well. And loving it. I got to spend time with them in Arizona and all my siblings made the trip out to see them this winter. A first! Dad gave us all quite a scare with his recent heart attack (see blog dates Feb 24-25) and their potential loss has never been more real to me. Dad has gotten a new lease on life and I have been given more opportunity to spend time with them. I have been blessed with incredible parents and love them dearly. I am sobered and grateful.

Being away from everyday routines always gives me a chance to become clearer about what matters. It slows me down and makes me question what I am focused on and how I am spending my time. It removes the fog. It reminds me that life is too short to be wasted on activities, physical or mental, that numb my own or an other's aliveness. It convinces me that I am in charge of whether I express my thoughts, feelings and dreams--or not. Today, I feel very much alive and clear. I love my wife, Beverly. I love my friends and family. I love my cats, Franklin and Starling. I love my work. I love my pastimes. I love living. As the old blues song recommends: Live the life you love; Love the life you live. Amen. Good-bye. Fare well!

Now, I resolve to go to work on being able to have afforded this! And plot more adventures . . .

Drift Boating the Big Horn

Friday, March 27: Rented a drift boat and had a very nice boat ride from After Bay to the Three Mile access. The weather was just a little too nice, apparently—sunny and warm. Managed to take only one trout at the end of the float—wading the same place we had been successful the day before. It was a nice boat ride, though, and we ate well on our store bought groceries. Our mantra has long been: We fish like fools, eat like kings, drink like sailors and sleep like babies. Mission accomplished on all fronts.

The Big Horn River

Thursday, March 26: Awoke to fresh snow, breakfasted, grocery shopped and headed for the Big Horn River, where Tom had arranged the use of a cabin (above) belonging to a friend of his. It turned out to be a wonderful place with bedroom suites for the three of us and a large common room with fireplace and amply-appointed kitchen. After failing to find an affordable drift boat rental, we focused on wade fishing. Amazingly, blue-winged olives (tiny mayflies of the Family Baetidae) and midges (really tiny aquatic flies--gnats) were hatching and a sizable pod of brown trout (Salmo Trutta) were found rising--feeding, thankfully, on the less tiny blue-wings. With large snow flakes still falling, we caught dinner. The trout--broiled with garlic, butter, lemon and thyme--and Rick's garlic/mushroom risotto made for a fine repast. Tom (left) and Rick (right) reminisced about their common Albion College history well into the night and we all marveled at our good fortune dry fly fishing in the snow. We had planned a trout dinner dependent on catching them--usually a guarantee of questionable luck even in the best of circumstances.

Twin Bridges to Hardin

Wednesday, March 25: Left Twin Bridges late morning and headed to Hardin (NE of the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument) to meet up with long time friends Tom and Nancy White, transplants from Kalamazoo. Had what has now become normal crazy weather all the way there: sun, snow, hail, sleet, rain and wind—often, all of them visible at once in this big sky country. Arrived to find that Tom has taken up cooking in earnest: prime roast sizzling in the oven, boiled potatoes staged for ricing and mashing, and asparagus ready for steaming. Once Nancy arrived home from work, a marvelous feast was enjoyed by all. For all Kalamazoo friends, Tom and Nancy are doing well, both in love with their work. They are most excellent and willing hosts!

Twin Bridges, Montana

Monday, March 23: Arrived in Twin Bridges yesterday afternoon via Wisdom, MT. Lots of snow there and also along most of the Big Hole River's length (the Big Hole River is the one Lewis and Clark ventured up first before deciding that the Beaverhead--marginally to the east-- was a better route--they climbed the high bluff to the left side of the photo above to make this determination). It is definitely late winter here, not early spring. Monday dawned gray and frosted-looking with a powder coat of snow everywhere on everything. With dim prospects for fishing we donned all of our cold weather clothing and ventured upriver with our assigned guide, Frank Kneeshaw, of 4 Rivers Fishing Company. Our first piece of luck was that the wind was not blowing, making mid-30's feel just fine. The second piece was a hooked and boated brown trout within the first half hour of fishing. Lastly, it turned out to be a gorgeous stretch of streamer fishing water with more cooperative trout than Rick and I have seen in some time. A great day on the water. Hooked lots of fish, stayed toasty warm (despite a high south of 40) and enjoyed the company of an excellent Big Hole River guide in Frank.

Tuesday, March 24: Another cold day, definitely colder than yesterday. 19 degrees at 7am and only mildly warmer by the time we got to the river, one float upstream from yesterday (again on the Big Hole). The guides on our fly rods were icing up for the first few hours, even when we were convinced the temperature was above freezing. It turned out to be another glorious day of trout fishing. We boated at least as many fish as yesterday, including two browns over 20". It would not be a gross overstatement to say that this was the best two days of trout fishing we have enjoyed in a very long time, perhaps ever. We are both in love with this part of Montana and had a great time with Frank. We hope to fish with him again.

The Bitterroot River

Wednesday, March 18: Picked up Rick Schmitt (above right, holding fish) at the Missoula airport. Ate dinner (fish & chips) at the English pub (Hamilton House) in Victor. Ate too much. Pulled into Backdoor Outfitters south of Stevensville, MT around 8pm. Got to bed early.

Thursday, March 19: Fished the Bitterroot from Blodgett to Tucker (river crossings) with guide, John Cook. We've fished with him off and on over the last 10 years. John and his wife, Pat (photo right), have a small ranch near the Bitterroot River with cabins for guests. It's a great place to stay and hang out. Streamside lunch locations (above left) are always chosen with great views in mind.

Got started on the river around 11:30. Good trout activity in the early afternoon, then slow. Boated somewhere in the neighborhood of a dozen--rainbows, cutthroats & browns. Nice day. Some sun, mostly cloudy, maybe mid 50's. Had pizza delivered to the cabin. In bed by 10.

Friday, March 20: Fished Wally to Angler's Roost. Bright, sunny day, maybe mid 60's. Too nice, apparently. The fish were nowhere near as active. Fewer bugs as well. Still caught some nice trout on dry flies (Skwala imitations--early season stone flies) prospecting. Not as good as yesterday, but good enough. Beautiful day.

Saturday, March 21: A perfect looking day. Warm, cloudy, calm. Floated from Tucker to Bell. Managed to catch a few trout on the surface using Skwala imitations, but saw virtually no rises and only a few bugs. Still, a very good day on the river.

Sunday, March 22: Left John & Pat and drove east in a serpentine fashion via the Big Hole River headwaters town of Wisdom, MT. Lots of snow there. Arrived in Twin Bridges around 2pm and set up in an apartment above the 4 Rivers Fly Shop. While there appears to be little cell phone service here, I at least have temporary internet access!

Port Townsend To Missoula

St. Patrick's Day: Spent last night in Port Townsend again with Sandy, Randy & Clayton--had a great visit with them both times there--then headed east towards Missoula. Thought I'd stay in eastern Washington, but nothing looked appealing, so I kept going and made it all the way to Montana. Beautiful scenery along I-90 through the Cascades, then again through Idaho. Went over 3 mountain passes, all with loads of snow--the above photo is at Snoqualmie Pass.